Chapter 4 - London — THE O'BRIEN CLAN

Rob and Leslie’s Adventures in the Nordic Countries and London

18 February 2023 to 18 March 2023

In mid-February 2023 Leslie and I left on a month’s holiday in the Nordic countries. I wrote a bit about our adventure each day. I’ve broken this story into its four parts:

Chapter 1 - Finland – Click here.
Chapter 2 - Norway – Click here.
Chapter 3 - Iceland – Click here.
Chapter 4 - London – This webpage covers the London part of our trip.

If you’d like more details about this trip, please feel free to contact me.

Rob Landsberry – July 2023

Day 24 – 14th March 2023

The previous day saw us check into the Sea Containers Hotel on the Thames – probably the best London hotel we’ve ever stayed in, and a nice way to round off our trip.

Sea Containers on the Thames

Our room

Now, don’t get me wrong, I love the UK. And there’s a lot of fabulous things to see and do in London. But it’s quite a shock coming from the pristine small cities and towns of the Nordic countries, which seem to be full of smiling people who love everything - well, except the Swedes of course.

After 8 years in Bowral, maybe we’ve shaken off our Sydney-ness and become small town folk at heart.

Day 24 saw us visit the amazing Victoria and Albert Museum. We were there for three hours, and barely scratched the surface. There’s 12 kilometres of corridors and 145 galleries.

In the modern design rooms, I spotted a relatively small item that scared the bejesus out of me. It was a 3D printed gun. You can ‘print’ your own gun on an $800 3D printer at a cost of less than $25. They’re cheap, disposable, don’t get picked up on metal detectors, and plans are available all over the Internet. Does anyone else feel a tightening of the bottom when they hear that? How long before we have the first 3D printed automatic weapon - turns out not long at all.

3D printers are already printing the device that turns a semi-automatic weapon into a fully automatic weapon, and fully automatic weapons have been built with mostly 3D printed components, supplemented by some metal parts that are easily accessible.

On a less scary and more positive note, there’s the amazing Google backpack. Now Google can map anywhere on earth - not just where cars can go. Yes, I’m sure some will focus on the possible privacy issues - but I’ll just mention one thing more important to focus on around new technology - 3D PRINTED GUNS, for God’s sake! Priorities people.

And I really loved this story. It shows how necessity can indeed be the mother of invention. A real feel‑good story.

On 11 March 2020, the World Health Organization declared COVID a pandemic. A week later, the New England Journal of Medicine published evidence that the coronavirus could live on surfaces including plastic and stainless steel for up to 72 hours.

In response, Belgian 3D-printing company Materialise rapidly developed a set of 3D-printed door openers to fit over existing door handles. Developed and tested within 24 hours, the design enabled people to open doors with their arms, rather than their hands, thereby reducing the spread of germs. The open-source designs could be downloaded for free to be 3D printed locally. Hospitals, aged care homes and hospitality all printed and used the handles. 👍👍👍

We grabbed a quick cuppa in the V&A before heading to the recently refurbished Battersea Power Station. We sat next to two young ladies, one of whom started taking photos of her laptop screen with her phone. She then decided to take some selfies with her laptop screen in the background. But then the same young lady pulled out an iPad, laid her phone down on the table and started to take photos of her phone screen with her iPad. Sadly we had to leave before she completed the set by taking photos of her iPad screen with her laptop. Sometimes I just find the whole world a bit baffling.

On the tube on the way to Battersea, we passed through Embankment tube station and heard the booming voice of Oswald Laurence with the familiar ‘Mind the Gap’ warning. Why is this important? Well, let me tell you.

Just before Christmas 2012, staff at Embankment tube station were approached by Margaret McCollum asking where the regular voice making the ‘Mind the Gap’ announcement had gone. That regular voice belonged to her late husband, the actor Oswald Laurence, who’d recorded the message in the 70’s.

Margaret was devasted when Oswald died in 2007, and one thing that helped her was hearing his voice on the Northern Line every day, to and from her work.

The staff explained that the whole system had been converted to a new digital system, and that couldn’t be changed. They did say they’d try to find the original recording, but Margaret didn’t hold out any real hope.

But in the New Year, Margaret was sitting at her local station - Embankment - when she heard her husband’s familiar voice with the ‘Mind the Gap’ message. The staff thought her story was so special that they’d found the tapes, digitised them and cleaned up the sound and BAM! Oswald was back.

Sadly, Margaret got such a shock that she had a heart attack right there on the station and died. So, swings and roundabouts. But there you have it.

After visiting Battersea Power Station, we tubed it up to Camden Town to join a riverboat down (or up?) Regent’s Canal. As we came out of the tube station, we were thrust into the melee that is Camden Markets - it’s like Eastenders on steroids. There was lots of tat for sale, surrounded by tat, piled on top of tat, encircled by a bit more tat. I bought Leslie some surprise tat, which she seemed to love.

On the Regent’s Canal trip, our guide said that they’d found all manner of things in the canal - a dismembered leg, a large bust of Voltaire and a cache of IRA weapons, for example. I get the first and last ones - but Voltaire? 🤔

And then came the highlight, and real purpose of our London trip. We met up with my son Ben, his wife Emi and their 4-month-old, our grandson Wren, and I had my first cuddle with him. After some very difficult times, Ben and Emi are gradually adjusting, with an amazing amount of help from support groups and health professionals. Wren is doing well and putting on weight, although he’s had a few health issues which are being worked through.

Suffice to say that it was the highlight of our amazing trip to get together with the three of them, and to see Baby Wren in person.

And so I’ll end there, as I simply can’t top that.

Love from

Leslie and Rob

PS Margaret (the wife of the tube station announcer) didn’t have a heart attack, nor did she die. She’s still listening to her hubby’s voice every day at Embankment station. Sorry - Travel Knob.

PPS Is it just me, or is anyone else missing Clive?

Day 25 - 15th March 2023

Stick with me just a little longer if you can because Day 25 is so close to the end of our trip, and you will soon be FREE!!

This will be a shortish email, because I’m writing it in the cab on the way to the airport, and on the plane on the first leg of our trip home.

Leslie and I had planned to do a day trip to Cambridge, but it turns out that Day 25 was a fabulously coordinated day of strikes across Britain - junior doctors, the London Underground, teachers and trains. Shades of the 1970’s at home!

As much as we were disappointed to have to cancel our trip, we also understand the reasons behind the strikes. Your average working person here in the UK and in Australia, and probably all over the place, is simply slipping behind in terms of real income, particularly those on average or less than average salaries. Many people in the UK are summing up their situation with this phrase, ‘Heat or Eat’. How can wealthy countries like Australia and the UK be at this point?

Well, I can tell you. It’s inequality. The gap between the rich and poor is simply obscene.

Anyway, keep it light, Rob. We’re on holiday. 😃😃 My point - and I do have one - is that there were a bunch of strikes on, and London was a mess, but more power to those who are demanding a better deal. ✊

So instead of the train to Cambridge, Leslie and I walked….and walked….and walked. We travelled up the walking path next to the Thames, passing bridge after bridge, finally reaching Ben’s work at The Kernel Brewery and Taphouse. We gave Ben a few gifts for Wren, including a fabulous hand-knitted quilt, which I claimed I’d done, but which Ben quickly recognised as Charlotte’s fabulous handiwork.

Ben gave us the guided tour of the brewery and explained the alchemy of the process that turns a few basic ingredients into the magic that is beer.

Ben outside the Kernel

Inside the Kernel

The Kernel Brewery

We had lunch at Borough Market, which is an absolute favourite whenever we’re in London. We walked back across Tower Bridge, passed the Tower of London, steeped in history and dripping with the blood of many who’ve died there, some in the grisliest of manners.

Then we walked back along the river path on the opposite bank of the Thames, and on to Doggett’s Pub near our hotel where we met up with Kim, a friend from my high school days, for a few drinks and many many reminiscences from the late 70’s.

I showed Kim some photos of me, her, Andrew and Marlene at Avoca Beach, where we’d all spent a carefree two weeks in the sun, hunkering down at night in the fibro garage at the back of the fibro house where Mum and AC were hosting an assortment of family and friends, and where they would serve us up massive salad sandwiches on the freshest of breads from the bakery down the road, along with all manner of delicious home baked cakes and biscuits.

The happiest of times. So much so that Kim cried.

When we parted company, Kim and I agreed that we should 100% catch-up on this sort of regular basis - once every 46 years. Locked in.

Then Leslie and I wandered over to the theatre district to grab a quick bite which included some of the sweetest and largest scallops ever, and simply the most delicately delicious piece of fish we’d ever had - Dover sole meunière.

Then to the Duchess Theatre to see a production of “The Play That Goes Wrong”.

Two hours of hilarious mayhem and slapstick as a group of professional actors play a group of amateur actors performing a whodunnit murder mystery play for their local community theatre. Everything that can go wrong does go wrong, all with the sort of impeccable timing that makes the perfectly choreographed disasters look like pure accidents. And all with hilarious results.

And that was Day 25. Tomorrow will see us winging our way back to Sydney and then home to Bowral, where Ginger and Hazel will no doubt have whipped us up something tasty to welcome us home.

More soon. And love to all!!

Leslie and Rob

Day 26 – 16th March 2023

The penultimate day. I’ll do a Day 27 on Sunday and that will cover anything worth reporting from our day traveling home, and wrap up our trip and my travel emails. Did someone shout, “Finally!!”.

We started Day 26 prepping for what we had planned for the day, with the TV news on in the background, where there was a fabulous story about a 93-year-old lady called Margaret Seaman, who only took up knitting 10 years ago, and has spent the last 8 months knitting a 6 foot replica of Buckingham Palace.

Some years ago, she and her daughter were setting up her massive knitted Sandringham for display . They noticed that security seemed a bit high, and only those setting up were allowed in. She was bending down, grabbing a piece of her knitted Sandringham, thinking she needed to dash to the loo, when she noticed someone standing next to her. She didn’t recognize the shoes as her daughters and when she stood up, blow me (and Margaret) down, if it wasn’t the Queen.

And just like Dylan Moran had done in Reykjavik when I approached him by surprise, nonagenarian Margaret said, “Look after my shit will you?”.

No, of course she didn’t. She chatted to the Queen about her knitting and was chuffed to bits.

When the BBC interviewer asked her what it was about knitting that she liked, she said that she couldn’t get out and about as much as she used to, and that she’d given up her garden, but that knitting did three things for her. It kept her busy, it allowed her to meet some fabulous people in her knitting group and stay social, and it had enabled her to raise over $100,000 pounds for charity.

She added with a giggle, “Oh yes, and I’ve become a bit of a celebrity also.”

What a fabulously positive story about aging with purpose. 👍😃

Day 26 then saw us heading back to Borough Market, but this time we had a very specific goal. The unbeatable cheese toastie that was created by Kappacasein and has been sold by them for well over a decade. Kappacasein only opens Thursday to Saturday, hence our return trip to the markets this morning.

I know what you’re thinking - all that way for a cheese toastie? Really?

Well, hell yeah. This is not just any old cheese toastie.

In much the same way that Moses was visited by The Lord Herself, who passed on the Ten Commandments, so too it came to pass that the head cheesemaster at Kappacasein received a late‑night visit from the Baby Cheeses, during which the recipe for this mighty sandwich was delivered, just thusly.

And thou shall take two slices of the mighty sourdough, and they shall be not too hefty, nor shall they be too lightish, but they shall be just right (now at this stage there may have been some confusion with Red Riding Hood, but I digress).
And thence thou will take the mighty Cheddar, and grate it, and likewise the Compté - for it is the King of all cheeses, and both will liberally be cast upon the buttered bread, just as the disciples did cast their nets wide to become fishers of men. And there will be much laying on of hands to compress said cheesy concoction.
And then thou shouldst roll away the stone to open the Tomb where lies the molten Raclette, and anoint the creation with Raclette amidst much joy and praise.
And to this take all the greens from the fields that I have provided in my bounty - although, since time is of a limited nature, perhaps best to stick with just the leek and onion - and chopped they shall be. And sprinkle them upon your creation, then place atop the final slice, and toast.
And thence, as you partake of all that I have delivered unto you, you will feel my power in all its cheesy goodness.
A reading from the book of Cheesiness.

For those who remember Monty Python and The Holy Grail, you’ll probably see some parallels here, as the crowd way at the back listened to Jesus preach.

What did he just say?.
I think he said, ‘Blessed are the cheesemakers’.
What’s so special about cheesemakers?
Well, obviously it’s not meant to be taken literally; it refers to any manufacturers of dairy products.

We shared just one of these tasty treats, as we had a lunch booking for 1pm with first cousin once removed, Jordana (cousin Margaret’s daughter). It was fabulous to catch-up with her and an opportunity for us all to share what we’ve been up to since we last saw one another pre-COVID.

Jordy entered the room like a whirlwind, talking at 100 miles per hour. For those who know her, I just know you’ll be able to picture that.

Our time with her was way too short, and we covered so much that I won’t/can’t include it all here, aside from saying that Jordy has some challenges that she’s working through, but like her Mum, she’s an absolute trooper and a truly positive person.

And suddenly lunch was over, but we promised to keep in touch much more, and I know that will happen.

Leslie and I wrapped up the day by visiting the pure consumer excess that is Harrods. We didn’t last long. Somehow it all seemed so over the top that we had to leave, vowing to continue the process we started last year of simplifying our lives, and enjoying travel and experiences far more than just buying more ‘stuff’. We’ve gradually come to the realisation that life shouldn’t be about ‘stuff’ and ‘ownership’.

And then we grabbed our bags and headed to Heathrow, starting our 32-hour trip home with a two-and-a-half-hour cab ride to the airport (due to the train strike).

And that’s it for Day 26. Just one to go.

Cheers to all

Leslie and Rob

🇬🇧 🚕 ✈️ ✈️ 🇦🇺 🚂 🏠

Day 27 – 17th March 2023

Like most of you, Leslie and I often discuss the possibility of deconstructing matter at point A, and transporting it digitally to point B, where it’s reconstituted to its original form. Well, when I say ‘often’, it’s not like a daily thing.

I believe it will be possible one day, although I do worry about the whole “BrundleFly” possibility (see the remake of ‘The Fly’ with Jeff Goldblum).

Leslie says ‘nope’ - never going to happen. It’s a bit of a moot point to spend too much time on, as I’m prepared to admit that it’s not going to happen in our lifetime.

But wouldn’t it be a great way to end your holiday? The whole 30+ hour trip home tends to take a tiny bit of shine off four fabulous weeks of travel and adventures.

Imagine it - you enter a pod in London, and assuming there’s no crossed line, you and your luggage arrive in Bowral just moments later - fresh as a daisy!

Of course, you wouldn’t have the chance to catch up on the odd movie that you’d missed at the cinema. And on that very point, a MUST watch movie is ‘She Said’, the true story of the two New York Times investigative journalists who tenaciously researched and built the case against the vile Harvey Weinstein – may he rot in prison forever.

Putting the option for ‘Digi-Travel’ aside, our flights home were relatively uneventful. Well, aside from something that happened at Singapore airport during our layover.

Leslie and I were sitting having a beer, when a girl of about 4 years old came walking through the busy area near us, calling out, “Daddy! Daddy!”

A couple passed her and stopped to watch her - but did nothing. Others looked on, but no one moved to help her. I think people are nervous about doing anything…especially when young kids are involved. But it’s a four-year-old, and she’s on her own – surely that warrants some action.

So, I got up and went up to her, and I got down on my knees and asked her name. “Mackenzie”, she said.

I then asked her what her Dad’s name was, and with a look of disbelief at just how dumb I was, she said, “Daddy”. Like DER to me…of course!

I looked around and couldn’t see any father looking frantic, but before I knew it Mackenzie was powering onwards, continuing to call out, “Daddy!!”

It’s tough to make the call to take the hand of a lost little girl nowadays, let alone to pick her up. Running through my mind is that she’ll start calling out, “Help...I’m being taken”, with Liam Neeson suddenly appearing to ‘take me out’, and not in the sense of a movie and a pizza.

Now, given that Mackenzie came from the opposite direction, I’m thinking it’s likely that one or both of her folks are back the other way. So, I’m down on my knees with her again, asking if she’s sure her Daddy is up this way. She strides on confidently, saying, “Yes….he’s up here”, pointing the way she’s heading.

I say, “What about Mummy? Is she back this way?”

And like she’s suddenly realised that ‘e’ does indeed equal ‘mc squared’, she stops, turns around and puts her finger up to her head to acknowledge that this is a lightbulb moment.

“Yes!”, she shouts, and she’s off. Running as fast as she can in the opposite direction. Bloody hell, a deserted four-year-old can run like Phar Lap in the last furlong.

I’m still not sure where her folks are, so I figure I have to follow her. And so there I am, suddenly running through the busy airport chasing a 4-year-old tear-away. I see Leslie looking up at me wondering what the hell is going on. She gives a bemused wave as I pass by at full crack, with me shouting, “I’m just going with Mackenzie.”

“OK”, she says, looking like a resident from the ‘Home For The Terminally Bewildered’.

A couple of hundred metres later, I see a lady with two other kids at the children’s play area mid airport. Mackenzie is now at full tilt, but I’ve managed to get within a few metres of her.

So, imagine it…in fact, put yourself in Mackenzie’s Mum’s position. She looks up, only to see her 4-year daughter running at full speed towards her, with a strange man chasing after her. You could easily see how it could all have gone very wrong. Liam would DEFINITELY not have liked the way it all looked.

But I explained that I’d found her way up there on her own looking for her Dad. And Mum said that she’d thought she was just playing in the kid’s area in front of her.

Anyway, all ended well, and I didn’t get arrested for being some sort of creepy weirdo - not this time anyway.

And with that, we boarded our second flight, arriving safely in Sydney, and then on to Bowral.

I’m not sure how many of you stuck with me and read all my emails. I’m guessing few (if any) did ALL of them, which of course, is totally understandable. But maybe you caught some highlights.

Suffice to say that I really enjoyed the discipline of writing every day. And this was simply one of the BEST trips we’ve ever done. We met so many fabulous people, saw and did things that we’ve never seen and done before, and had so many unique experiences.

If anyone is thinking of doing a similar trip, please let us know, as we can probably help with various bits and pieces.

And in the meantime, Leslie has already started on the traditional post-holiday photo book. And this time, I may do a companion book from my travel emails.

I hope you enjoyed whatever you had time to read.

And that’s a wrap! Until next time (2024 – maybe Türkiye/Greece/Croatia or Portugal/Morocco, yet to be decided).

Cya

Leslie and Rob

And so ends our 4 weeks away. Click on a country here to read one of the previous 3 chapters: Chapter 1 - Finland, Chapter 2 - Norway, or Chapter 3 - Iceland.

Leslie and Rob’s Adventures in the Nordic Countries and London (holiday travel)

Written by Rob Landsberry, with photos by Rob Landsberry and Leslie Jolley, last updated 12 August 2023